Higashiyama(s)

For the first time, we were out the door by 9:30a.m. and off to Nishiki Market (which apparently opens at sunrise) for a feast of a sort... Unfortunately the vendors didn't get the memo about opening at sunrise and we just setting up, if they were there already that is. However, we saw some crazy amounts of fish and I can say it must come in fresh from the coast because it was all in crates and looked mighty, well, fresh.

So off we went to discover the treasures of Higashiyama, the North as well as South. The streets were so empty so early and it really was a surprise that we were just catching people opening up shops or on their way to work. I had some kind of notion that life in this town started a heckuva lot earlier than 9:30....
First we stopped by Heian-jingu Shrine. It was kind of weird seeing a place you've seen in books before, we had that feeling all day actually.

In front of Heian-jingu Shrine is a huge steel torii gate that is actually apparently considered the real entry way to Heian-jingu Shrine. This area of town was really lovely and it only got better! (So keep reading or scrolling down)

We hadn't had much of anything to eat yet and had already been walking for some time when we got to a 7 & iHoldings (it still cracks me up). Pit stop sooooo necessary. We picked up the most random stuff,  coffees, a bread looking item and those rice snacks Kevin had yesterday. MmmMmmm. We sat in front of the store and munched watching the cars go by. Then out of no where "SNATCH!!!". A friggin' bird tried to steal my bread!!! Right out of my hands!!!! The nerve! Really! After that, he saw we were great targets and he kept pestering us and made several more attempts at stealing food out of our hands. We had to gobble at this point and head on our way, dumb bird ruined the moment. ;P

We headed up the street towards Maruyama-koen or park. It's been called a sort of Central Park of Kyoto (even though it's not in the center), people go there to spend time and picnic and be outdoors etc etc nice things. On the way, in our fashion, we stopped to take many a picture and meander a bit. We stopped in our tracks when seeing these trees.

We realized it was Shoren-in Temple and had good reviews by our handy-dandy guide book so we went in. It was so amazingly worth it! Impressive in every sense of the word. The temple was founded in 1150 but the present buildings were built in 1895. It was room after room of old art and rooms with tatami mats and lovely views of the gardens. There were some altars as well. It was so easy to imagine the people of old Japan walking on the same floor as you are.

The garden was just as amazing, if not more than the inside of the temple. Winding path around the pond and up to the bamboo forest in the back and back around again to more old trees and a large bell. Kevin was instructed by a helpful young Japanese couple how to pray and ring the bell. It was such a great place to visit, like the guide book says, it is usually overlooked by tourists and I'm happy it is because it really was special and nice sharing the grounds with only a dozen other people. So peaceful and pretty.

After the Shoren-in Temple we headed onward in the direction of Maruyama-koen. I knew there was to be a bathroom there and I was hoping with fingers and toes crossed for a modern toilet. Once we made it I knew I was to be disappointed upon entering and sure enough, there it was before me: the porcelain hole in the ground. It's not like peeing my pants was a real option so I had to make do and even though I am super picky about where and how I relieve myself, I managed to man up and just do it. Go Anneli!

So once that was done, we moved on to Maruyama-koen. It was a bit of a disappointment because none of the cherry trees were blossoming! Such a let down because Maruyama Park is supposed to be where it's at to see some sakura (cherry blossoms). It was still quite pretty with the pond and mountain backdrop but kind of sad that we really are missing the real cherry blossom time. It rreally hit home today that we are only going to see sporadic sakura.

So on we went through (now) Southern Higashiyama, the new destination being Kiyomizu-dera temple. We passed a rather large statue. So to explore we went. The shrine is called Ryozen Kannon and the statue is a Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (Kwannon). It was erected in 1955 to commemorate the Japanese who sacrificed themselves in WWII. The statue is 80ft (24m) tall. We were happy we stopped in because there were a couple cherry trees blooming! :)

We finally stumbled upon what has been described as the most beautiful neighborhood of Kyoto, the main streets of it being Ninen-Zaka (Two-Year hill) and Sannen-Zaka (Three-year hill). The lanes were lined with restaurants, cafes and shops and were buzzing with tourists, mainly Japanese. There was even a Totoro store!!! I stopped to get a pumpkin and chestnut ice cream, Kevin got more dango. We stopped and window shopped and looked at all the tourist goods and souvenirs.

Finally the street winded upwards and there it was, the gate to Kiyomizu-dera, complete with a cherry tree in bloom.

The views from Kiyomizu-dera were AMAZING! Like I said before, it was so weird to actually be there, a place you've seen in books and online for months... to be standing there. It was kind of surreal, especially with such breath taking views. We expected a lot more tourists but we've been pretty lucky as there really haven't been too many anywhere. At least I haven't felt annoyed by being in a swarm of other tourists all trying to get my same picture. ;D

You write your worries on this paper and put it in the bucket of water and as it dissolves, so do your worries.

After Kiyomizu-dera we were HUNGRY again. We started searching for a good place to eat and found dessert first. Green tea cake with green tea ice cream on top. It was super tasty! See how I smile for real when it's a food picture...

We soon found it though, a good soba restaurant. It was tiny inside with only a few tables, but we were the only ones there so it felt perfect. It was really home-y. There were sounds of what seemed like a whole family from the next room. Kevin ordered green tea soba and I had wild vegetable soba. Soba is a buckwheat noodle, by the way.Delicious meal yet again.

With our bellies full we headed back towards the hotel, back through Maruyama-Koen. I took some shots of unsuspecting Japanese women in kimonos, they were just so pretty with the old buildings around them.

Note the little boy ringing the bell :)

Someone's prayer

And that, my friends, was our day! Lots of walking again. It was cold and sunny, Kevin thought he wouldn't need his jacket and only wore a sweater and I think he regretted it later. I was also under-dressed by one layer, I could have used either a thicker sweater or a long sleeve shirt. Tomorrow we will be wiser.

Thanks for reading yet again!

Sayonara!



-Anneli and Kevin